My Rome Guide

Morning

The Colosseum opens at 8:30 and fills up fast. The arena floor and underground chambers are well preserved, and walking where gladiators once fought is worth the crowds. Buy tickets in advance to skip the entrance line.

• Colosseum — opens 8:30 AM; €18 combined ticket with Roman Forum; allow 2-3 hours

Afternoon

The Roman Forum is larger than it appears from street level and has more intact structures than you'd expect. Your Colosseum ticket includes entry here. There's little shade, so bring water on sunny days.

• Roman Forum — opens 9 AM; included with Colosseum ticket; closes 4:30 PM

Morning

Trevi Fountain is Rome's largest baroque fountain and one of the city's most photographed spots. It opens at 9 AM and gets packed by afternoon, so early morning gives you the best chance for photos without crowds. The water flows constantly and the carved figures are more detailed than they appear in pictures.

• Trevi Fountain — free; opens 9 AM; bring coins for the tradition

Afternoon

Roscioli is a deli and restaurant that sources ingredients from across Italy. They don't take reservations easily but sometimes have walk-in tables at their 2:30 seating. The cured meats and cheeses come from small producers you won't find elsewhere in Rome.

• Roscioli — lunch 12:30-15:30, dinner 19:00-23:30; accepts credit cards; try for walk-ins at 2:30 PM

Morning

The Vatican Museums house the Sistine Chapel and miles of art collections. You can't see everything in one visit, so focus on the highlights. Book tickets online weeks in advance to avoid the street hawkers selling overpriced tours.

• Vatican Museums — opens 8 AM; €17 online; closed Sundays; allow 3-4 hours

Afternoon

Saint Peter’s Basilica is free to enter and houses Michelangelo's Pietà behind bulletproof glass. The dome climb costs extra but offers views over Rome. Castel Sant'Angelo was built as a mausoleum, later used as a papal fortress, and now displays Renaissance frescoes and weapons.

• Saint Peter’s Basilica — free entry; dome climb €10; opens 7 AM
• Castel Sant'Angelo — €15 admission; closed Mondays; river views from the top

Evening

The area around St. Peter's has mostly tourist restaurants. Walk back toward the center or eat in Prati, the neighborhood just east of the Vatican.

Day 4 explores Rome's artistic treasures and bohemian neighborhoods, from world-class sculptures in a villa park to medieval streets across the river. You'll see Bernini masterpieces, climb famous steps, and end with sunset views over the eternal city.

Morning

Galleria Borghese requires advance reservations and limits visits to two hours. The sculpture collection includes three Bernini masterpieces, and the paintings include works by Caravaggio. The villa sits in Rome's largest park. After your museum visit, walk to the nearby Spanish Steps that connect the luxury shopping area below with the church above.

• Galleria Borghese — €15; must book time slots online; closed Mondays

Afternoon

Trastevere sits across the river from the main tourist areas and has narrow medieval streets lined with restaurants. It's less polished than the center but more residential. Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere is one of Rome's oldest churches with 12th-century mosaics.

• Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere — free; opens 7:30 AM; beautiful mosaics

Evening

Trattoria Da Enzo serves traditional Roman dishes like carbonara and cacio e pepe in a small space with no reservations. After dinner, take the 15-minute uphill walk to Janiculum Hill for panoramic views over the city, especially beautiful at sunset.

• Trattoria Da Enzo — cash only; arrive early; closed Sundays
• Janiculum Hill — free; open 24 hours

Morning

Tivoli is 30 kilometers east of Rome and requires a full day trip. Take the train from Roma Termini to Tivoli station, then a local bus to the villas. Villa d'Este is a Renaissance garden with elaborate fountains and water features built into a hillside.

• Villa d'Este — €10 admission; opens 8:30 AM (2 PM Mondays); some fountains may be dry for maintenance

Afternoon

Castel Gandolfo sits on Lake Albano in the hills south of Rome and serves as the Pope's summer residence. The town has a small historic center and lake views. You can combine this with Tivoli but it requires careful planning with train schedules.

• Castel Gandolfo — 45 minutes by train from Rome; papal palace tours available some days